- Manufacturer Breeze Marine Boat Service Remove This Item
Boat Electrical Repair
Boat electrical repair in Long Beach and San Pedro: wiring, gauges, ignition, trim and tilt, bilge pumps and batteries, fixed at your slip. Book now.
- 11 services
- At your slip or in the shop
Marine Electrical Repair in Long Beach and San Pedro
We diagnose and repair boat electrical systems at your slip, dock or storage yard from Marina del Rey to Newport Beach, or at our San Pedro shop. We trace the fault from the batteries to the panel, find the cause and quote the repair before any work is done.
What the work covers
The core service is marine electrical repair and troubleshooting: dead circuits, tripping breakers, corroded connections and wiring that has been added to over the years. The work also covers:
- Batteries and charging: marine battery replacement and charging system repair, plus lithium LiFePO4 battery conversions and power upgrades.
- Shore power: shore power inspection and cord replacement.
- Corrosion: electrolysis and galvanic corrosion testing, with a check of the bonding system.
- Solar: marine solar panel design and installation.
- Networks: NMEA 2000 networking and digital switching systems.
- Lighting, sound and internet: underwater LED lighting, marine audio upgrades, Starlink installation, and marine electronics installation and repair.
Parts are quoted with the job.
When to call
- Batteries that go flat overnight or will not hold a charge
- A breaker that keeps tripping, or a circuit that works one day and not the next
- A shore power plug or inlet that looks burnt or feels hot
- Zincs that wear away fast, or pitting on props and running gear
- Electronics that reset, flicker or drop off the network
Questions about marine electrical repair
Why do boat electrical problems come and go?
Salt air and moisture corrode terminals and crimped joints. A weak connection can pass a quick check and still fail when the circuit carries current, so we test circuits under load.
Is a lithium battery conversion a simple swap?
Usually not. Lithium batteries charge differently from lead-acid, so the charger, alternator and battery monitor often need changes as part of the job.
Book a visit: submit a ticket with the boat, where it is kept and which circuits are acting up, or call (562) 542-7296.
See also: marine battery replacement and charging system repair.
See also: boat alternator repair marine rebuild and charging system testing.
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#519 Common question asks
Is marine solar power really effective for boats kept in the marina?
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Yes, for many boats. In a slip, a properly sized array charges the batteries during the day for loads such as the bilge pump, a refrigerator, electronics and security devices, so the boat relies less on shore power. Output depends on sun, shade and season, so we size the array from your loads.
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#517 Common question asks
Do you offer any recommendations to prevent corrosion after testing?
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Yes, we provide tailored recommendations based on your boat’s condition. These may include installing additional sacrificial anodes, upgrading your bonding system, or using corrosion inhibitors. We also suggest regular checks and cleaning to prevent the buildup of corrosive elements, especially in saltwater environments.
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#515 Common question asks
What kind of warranty comes with your testing and services?
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Our workmanship is warranted for 90 days from the invoice date, and parts we replace, such as anodes or bonding wires, carry their manufacturer's warranty. Your invoice lists the tests and the work done.
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#513 Common question asks
Do you provide any maintenance after the corrosion testing?
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Yes. We repair bonding wires and connections, install galvanic isolators and replace the anodes we can reach, with a written estimate before any repair. Anodes below the waterline on a boat in the water are changed by a diver we refer you to, who works for you directly.
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#511 Common question asks
What’s included in the bonding system check?
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We inspect the bonding wires and terminals in the bilge, test continuity from each underwater fitting (thru-hulls, shaft, rudder, struts, engine and drive) to the bonding system, and check that the anodes are connected and wearing as they should.
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#509 Common question asks
How often should I have my boat tested for corrosion?
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Have it tested when your anodes wear much faster or slower than usual, after electrical work or a move to a new slip, and as a routine check when the anodes are replaced. Boats that stay in salt water all year benefit most from regular checks.
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#507 Common question asks
How do you test for galvanic corrosion on my boat?
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We hang a silver/silver-chloride reference electrode in the water and read the voltage of your underwater metals against it, with shore power connected and disconnected. The readings show whether your anodes are protecting the boat, over-protecting it or not doing enough, and whether stray current is present. We also check every bonding wire and connection for continuity.
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#505 Common question asks
What is electrolysis and how does it affect my boat?
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Electrolysis, or stray current corrosion, happens when an electrical current leaks from the boat's wiring, shore power or a nearby boat and leaves your underwater metals through the water, eating them away. It can damage props, drives, shafts, rudder fittings and thru-hulls quickly. Testing finds it early, before the repairs get costly.
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#503 Common question asks
What is a Load Equivalency Number (LEN) on an NMEA 2000 device?
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The LEN is a crucial metric that quantifies a device's power consumption on the NMEA 2000 network. One LEN equals 50 mA (0.05 Amps) of current draw. System designers must calculate the total LEN of all connected devices to ensure the network power supply and cabling can handle the combined load, which should generally not exceed 3 Amps total.
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#501 Common question asks
How is troubleshooting a digital switching system different from a traditional wired system?
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Troubleshooting shifts from tracing wires and testing voltage at the fuse block to network diagnostics. Key checks are: 1. Network resistance: about 60 Ohms between the CAN-H and CAN-L wires, measured with the network powered off. 2. Voltage: stable power (9-16V) at both ends of the backbone. 3. Software diagnostics: using the MFD or dedicated tools to view network load (LEN and current draw) and find failed or non-responding modules.
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