What is electrolysis and how does it affect my boat?

Electrolysis is the process where electrical currents in the water cause metal parts of your boat to break down, leading to corrosion. This can damage key underwater components like the hull, propellers, and rudders. Regular electrolysis testing can help identify these issues early, preventing costly repairs down the line.

How do you test for galvanic corrosion on my boat?

We use specialized equipment to measure voltage between different metal parts of your boat. This helps us detect any difference in potential that may cause corrosion. Our team also checks the bonding system to ensure all metal parts are properly connected, preventing harmful electrical currents.

How often should I have my boat tested for corrosion?

We recommend having your boat tested at least once a year, especially if it is regularly exposed to saltwater. Boats that stay in the water longer or are used in high-electrical demand environments may need more frequent checks. Early detection can save you from costly repairs.

What’s included in the bonding system check?

Our bonding system check involves inspecting all metal parts of the boat, from the hull to the engine, to ensure they are electrically connected. We check the condition of bonding cables, verify proper grounding, and ensure all anodes are functioning correctly to prevent corrosion.

Do you provide any maintenance after the corrosion testing?

Yes, we offer maintenance services to address any issues found during testing. This may include replacing damaged anodes, repairing bonding connections, or installing corrosion protection systems. We also provide guidance on how to maintain your boat's electrical system to reduce future risks.

What kind of warranty comes with your testing and services?

Our corrosion testing services come with a warranty for the work performed, ranging from 3 to 12 months depending on the type of service. Any parts we replace, such as anodes or bonding cables, also come with a manufacturer's warranty. We provide full documentation for all services completed.

Do you offer any recommendations to prevent corrosion after testing?

Yes, we provide tailored recommendations based on your boat’s condition. These may include installing additional sacrificial anodes, upgrading your bonding system, or using corrosion inhibitors. We also suggest regular checks and cleaning to prevent the buildup of corrosive elements, especially in saltwater environments.

Marine technician lowering a silver-chloride reference electrode into the water to test for stray current and electrolysis on a yacht in Long Beach harbor.

Electrolysis & Galvanic Corrosion Testing Bonding System Check

SKU

2140

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$150.00

The "silent killer" of underwater metals. If you are burning through zincs or seeing pitting on your prop, we use precision reference electrodes to find the stray current and fix your bonding system before costly damage occurs.

Details

The Silent Killer

Stop Metal Decay
Before It Starts.

Corrosion is inevitable, but destruction is optional. We use scientific testing to measure your boat's electric potential, ensuring your bonding system and zinc anodes are actually protecting your expensive props and drives.

The "Half-Cell" Test

We don't guess; we measure. Using a Silver-Silver Chloride (Ag/AgCl) reference electrode, we check the voltage of your hull metal against the seawater. This number tells us exactly if your boat is over-protected, under-protected, or safe.

Bonding Integrity

All underwater metals must be electrically connected (bonded) by green wires to a central ground. One broken wire means one isolated propeller or thru-hull is now dissolving. We test continuity on the entire bonding grid.

Stray Current vs. Galvanic

Galvanic corrosion is slow. Stray current (electrolysis) is fast and lethal, often eating a drive in days. We test for DC leaks and install Galvanic Isolators to block dangerous currents from shore power.

The Science of Protection.

A rigorous diagnostic protocol.

Reference Test

We dangle the reference electrode in the water and connect it to your bonding bus. A fiberglass boat should read between -550mV and -1100mV. Anything else is a problem.

Bonding Audit

We physically inspect the green bonding wires in the bilge. We look for green corrosion (copper oxide) on terminals and loose connections on thru-hulls and rudders.

Anode Analysis

Are your zincs disappearing too fast? Or not at all (passivated)? We determine if you need more surface area or a different material (Aluminum vs. Zinc vs. Magnesium).

Shore Isolation

We verify your Galvanic Isolator is functioning. This device blocks low-voltage DC current from your neighbor's boat from traveling up your shore power cord and eating your zincs.

Save Your Metals.

Prevention is cheaper than new props.

Marine surveyor using a Fluke multimeter and Ag/AgCl silver chloride reference electrode to test hull potential and zinc anode efficiency.

Close-up inspection of a corrosion-free marine bonding wire connected to a bronze seacock thru-hull fitting with proper crimping and heat shrink.

Marine technician installing a new sacrificial zinc anode on a boat transom to prevent galvanic corrosion and electrolysis damage.

Target Voltages.

What the numbers mean (vs Ag/AgCl).

Fiberglass (Inboard) -750mV to -1100mV

Aluminum Hull -950mV to -1150mV

Stern Drive (IO) -950mV to -1100mV

Common Questions

My zincs last forever. Is that good?

No! If your zincs aren't dissolving, they aren't working. They may be "passivated" (coated in a hard shell) or disconnected from the bonding system. This means your prop is dissolving instead.

Should I switch to Aluminum Anodes?

In many cases, yes. Modern Aluminum anodes (Navalloy) last longer and work better in brackish water than traditional Zinc. We can test to see which is best for your marina.