Why would I need my propeller pulled off the shaft?

Propeller removal is needed for inspections, shaft seal work, cutless bearing replacement or propeller repairs; on an inboard it is done with the boat out of the water. Pulling with a proper puller avoids damaging the shaft and lets the prop go back on correctly.

What is propeller re-hubbing and when is it needed?

Re-hubbing applies to outboard and sterndrive propellers, which have a rubber or plastic hub between the blades and the shaft; when it slips, the engine revs up but the boat barely speeds up. Insert-type hubs can be swapped at the boat, while pressed-in rubber hubs are replaced by a prop shop with a press. Inboard propellers have no hub to replace: they are keyed to a tapered shaft, and we pull them, with the boat out of the water, for shaft, seal or cutless bearing work.

What are signs of a spun or failing prop hub?

Common signs include sudden loss of thrust, inconsistent speed, high RPM with little movement, or vibration. A hub inspection confirms whether re-hubbing is required.

Can propeller removal damage the shaft or seals?

If done incorrectly, yes. We use proper marine pullers and techniques to safely remove the propeller without damaging the shaft, keyway, or shaft seals.

Does re-hubbing restore original performance?

Yes, re-hubbing restores proper power transfer from the engine to the propeller, improving acceleration, smoothness, and overall performance when the blades are still in good condition.

Do you inspect the prop shaft during removal?

Yes. We inspect the shaft, the splines or the key and keyway, and the hardware for wear or corrosion, and quote any repair that is needed before we do it.

Is propeller pulling and re-hubbing better than buying a new prop?

In many cases, yes. Re-hubbing is more cost-effective than replacing the entire propeller and provides reliable performance when the prop blades are still structurally sound.

Breeze Marine technician using a heavy-duty prop puller tool to remove a stainless steel propeller

Breeze Marine technician using a heavy-duty prop puller tool to remove a stainless steel propeller (2)

Propeller Pulling & Re-Hubbing Service

High RPMs but zero speed? You’ve likely "spun a hub." The rubber connection inside your propeller has failed. We use heavy-duty hydraulic pullers to remove seized props and get the hub replaced: insert hubs at the boat, pressed rubber hubs through a prop shop. Re-hubbing can save you the cost of a new propeller.

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$150 /hr

Labor estimate Usually 1–2 hours

Book sends us a ticket; nothing is charged online. Before any work you get a written estimate for labor, parts and the trip fee, and nothing is done without your OK.

Trip fee By distance, one way: $30 in San Pedro, $50 in Long Beach

San Pedro$30
Wilmington, Terminal Island$40
Long Beach: Shoreline, Rainbow Harbor$50
Long Beach Marina, Alamitos Bay$60
Redondo Beach$60
Seal Beach, Huntington Harbour$75
Marina del Rey$85
Newport Beach$110

Farther away: $25 plus $2.50 a mile, one way from our San Pedro shop. No trip fee when the boat comes to our shop, or for plan members. The work of a visit is at least $150; the trip fee is on top.

Registered in California: Breeze Marine Boat Service LLC, San Pedro
Where we work: At your slip from Marina del Rey to Newport Beach, or in our San Pedro shop
Questions first: (213) 693-0224 or submit a ticket

About this service

Propulsion Repair

High RPM.
Zero Speed.

If your engine roars but the boat barely moves, you've likely "spun a hub." We extract seized propellers and replace the internal safety hub to get you back on plane.

The "Spun Hub"

Outboard and sterndrive propellers have a rubber or plastic "fuse" (the hub) designed to give way if you hit a rock. Over time, heat and age can make it slip, disconnecting the engine from the blades.

Hydraulic Extraction

Saltwater seizes propellers to shafts. If you can't get it off, don't use a hammer (you'll bend the shaft). We use a specialized 5-ton hydraulic prop puller for safe seized propeller removal.

Re-Hub vs. Replace

A new stainless prop costs far more than a new hub. We swap Flo-Torq style insert hubs ourselves; a pressed-in rubber hub is replaced by a prop shop we work with or refer you to, and their charge is listed on your estimate. A new hub restores the drive connection; blade damage is a separate prop repair.

Extraction Protocol.

Safely removing the seized hardware.

Pull

With the prop clear of the water, we remove the cotter pin and castle nut, then attach our hydraulic puller to the propeller hub to break the corrosion bond.

Inspect

We inspect the prop shaft splines for twists or wear, and check for fishing line wrapped behind the prop, which can cut the prop shaft seal (a common cause of lower unit leaks).

Press/Swap

A pressed rubber prop hub goes to a prop shop we work with or refer you to, which presses in the new hub; their charge is listed on your estimate. For Flo-Torq hubs, we tap out the plastic insert and install the new kit.

Torque

We apply marine grease to the splines (to prevent future seizing) and torque the prop nut to the engine maker's specification.

Back on Plane.

Restoring the connection between power and water.

Hydraulic puller removing an inboard propeller

Propeller re-hubbing kit laid out next to an outboard prop

Greasing the propeller shaft splines before reinstalling the prop

Hub Technologies.

We service both traditional and modern hub systems.

Flo-Torq II Mercury / Quicksilver

Pressed Rubber Traditional Bronze/SS

RBX Hubs Solas / Rubex System

Common Questions

Why did it spin?

Impact (hitting bottom or a submerged object) is the most common cause of a spun prop hub. However, old age also causes the rubber to dry rot and slip, so on an older propeller the hub can fail without any impact.

Can I drive it home?

Only at idle speed. As soon as you apply throttle, the hub will slip, and you will lose propulsion. Trying to force it can melt the hub and damage the prop shaft.

Get Moving Again.

A new hub often saves the prop you have.

Pull My Prop

Slipping Hub or Something Else?

Not every case of high rpm and low speed is a failed hub. Ventilation, trim set too high, bent blades or a worn clutch in the lower unit can feel similar. Before any propeller rebuild, the prop shaft splines and blades deserve a close look, because a damaged spline or bent blade can ruin a new hub quickly.

A worn rubber prop hub and a Flo-Torq insert need different tools and parts, so identifying the hub type comes first.