LED Trailer Light Rewiring & Submersible Upgrades
The Last Lights
You'll Ever Buy.
Traditional trailer lights fail because they aren't designed for submersion. We install completely sealed, waterproof LED systems that are brighter, safer, and guaranteed not to blow out.
The Incandescent Failure
Hot glass bulbs shatter when hit by cold seawater. Sockets corrode, and grounds fail. Old-school trailer lights are a constant game of "fix-it" before every trip.
Submersible Tech
Our LED units are IP68 rated, meaning the circuit board is fully potted in epoxy. Water can enter the housing, but it cannot touch the electronics. They are designed to live underwater.
Complete Rewire
Changing the light unit isn't enough if the wire is rotten. We pull the old harness out of the frame and fish new, marine-grade tinned copper wiring from the tongue to the taillights.
Installation Standard.
We don't use electrical tape. Ever.
Strip & Fish
We remove all old wiring and clips. We fish a new harness through the trailer frame to protect it from road debris and sun.
Dedicated Ground
The #1 cause of flickering is relying on the trailer ball for ground. We run a dedicated white ground wire to every single light.
Heat Shrink
All connections are made with adhesive-lined heat shrink butt connectors that melt and seal the wire against saltwater intrusion.
Verify
We test running lights, brake lights, and turn signals using a dedicated 12V supply to ensure perfect operation before you arrive.
Bright & Waterproof.
Be seen on the highway, day or night.
Component Quality.
We use commercial-grade trailer components.
Common Questions
Why do my lights flicker?
Flickering is almost always a "Bad Ground." Most trailers use the metal frame as the ground wire. Rust breaks this connection. We solve this by running a physical ground wire to each light.
Are LEDs really waterproof?
Yes. Unlike old lights that relied on a gasket (jar lid) seal, modern marine LEDs are "potted," meaning the electronics are encased in solid resin. There is no air inside to leak.